Lhasa: Tibet’s urban decline

Prior to Chinese occupation in 1949, Tibet’s capital was more like a town than a city. Covering just three square km, Lhasa (meaning literally “good place”) was the most sacred religious site for all Tibetans and was filled with pilgrims and traders. Today Lhasa’s Chinese- initiated urban growth has resulted in 51 square km crowded with Chinese Karaoke bars, brothels, casinos and shopping complexes, its streets lined with beggars, prostitutes and the unemployed. Information recently received from Tibet describes the rapid moral and social degeneration of the Tibetan people.

One Tibetan, who asked not be named, spoke of children not being able to attend schools; young Tibetans being without jobs; an escalation of the transfer of Chinese into Tibet and an increase in the number of Karaoke bras and brothels.

“Our worst fear is coming true: Tibetans in Tibet are totally outnumbered. About 70 percent are Chinese settlers and the land is becoming almost unrecognizable with many new buildings replacing the old.”

“The new area built in 1995 below the Potala Palace (the Dalai Lama’s place in Lhasa) is generally used for special meetings and ceremonies organized by the authorities of the “Tibetan Autonomous Region.” On other occasions, it is used as an open market place. These stalls are taxed heavily: about 10 yuan per day. Tibetans quietly refer to it as the Kalachakra ground for they believe that when His Holiness the Dalai Lama returns to Tibet he will hold the first Kalachakra initiation here.”

“Fear mounts in every Tibetan’s heart. One cannot even be comfortable listening to the radio news broadcast for fear that, if a Chinese official should come to know, he will be labeled part of the “Dalai Clique.” Speaking freely is carefully monitored in the restaurants around the lingkor (Barkhor’s circumambulation path) and people who successfully spy are generously rewarded.”

“Sending children to school is a problem because the fees are very high, and even if a child gains very good marks, she or he has almost no chance of further studies. The system of bribes and connections is highly prevalent and therefore children from poor families, despite good achievements, have a very grim future. While it’s true that there are many schools being built, the Tibetan children are not given access to these. In addition to the actual school fees charged, Tibetan students are charged for broken window panes, for chairs and class furniture and even for the question and answer sheets for examinations.”

“China champions the “importance of children in Tibet attending schools” an says that children should be sent to school instead of monasteries. This requires that Tibetan children should have equal access to education but this does not happen. It is evident that China is simply using this as a means of crushing Tibetans’ religious sentiments.”

“Very often Chinese authorities select people to say positive things on television broadcasts about Chinese rule in Tibet. These subjects will be chosen a day before the shoot by the television crew.”

“These days beggars and paupers are not to be seen in and around the Barkhor (Lhasa’s central market area). There are about 3000 beggars but they have been sent to other places where they will not be seen by tourists. Some have even been locked up behind bars. During the religious month of Saka Dawa, when Tibetans traditionally give alms to the poor, the entire Barkhor will be filled with beggars. That is the time when one can clearly see the “truth” of China’s claim of economic prosperity in Tibet.”

“When an important delegation visits, all the beggars are cleared away much ahead of time to make it appear as though all is well in Tibet. Monasteries will be informed beforehand to prepare an atmosphere of serenity and peace and even in prisons the conditions are ostensibly  improved with the provision of more food and blankets.”

“Tibetan people are poor because there are no means of employment. To build a factory, workers are specifically transported from China. These people are called pagungtue  in Chinese – which means labourer- and after the project is completed they slowly settle. A new factory for beer has been constructed on the road to Sera monastery, north of Lhasa. Beer is now far more abundant and many young Tibetans are lured by the easy and cheap availability, leaving them with little ambitious in life. Food is abundant but prices are extremely high.”

“Many prostitutes from China are brought into Tibet. It is believed that these girls are also said to be well-trained in martial arts and provided with fire arms so that they can control protests that break out. There is a popular saying in Tibet that the English polluted and weakened the minds of the Chinese people with opium and that now in Tibet the Chinese are repeating history but this time with the weapons of alcohol and prostitution. Of course no one dares to say such a thing.”

“Freedom of religion in a mere lip service. No one is allowed to recite the long life prayer for His Holiness The Dalai Lama. Tibetans working as government officials are strictly prohibited from possessing pictures of the Dalai Lama. Although pictures are banned, many people secretly keep such pictures in their home but they live in constant fear of sudden raids by Chinese officials.”

“In the Potala Palace, hidden recorders and cameras are placed everywhere. They were installed with the proclaimed intention of detecting theft but the real is obvious. We have  heard that that the Jokhang- Lhasa’s main temple- and the important monasteries will soon be installed with the same cameras and microphones.”

“The Potala Palace is empty of even a photograph of His Holiness The Dalai Lama. It is a same as visiting a historical palace where there is no sign of the identity of history of its owner. The Potala, once the most sacred historical palace, is today a mere tourist  attraction. Visitors, including Tibetans, pay an entrance fee and the “Potala Management Committee” has a yearly quota which must be submitted to the Chinese government. The quota is currently 950,000 yuan (US $ 120,000) but this is increased every year and thus the entrance fee must be also raised.”

“Even the Norbulingka- the Dalai Lama’s Summer palace- which used to remain closed except for special occasions, is now opened every day so that more entrance fees (12 yuan per person) can be collected. Earlier no vehicles was allowed into the palace grounds, but now any private vehicles can enter upon paying a parking charge of five yaun.”

“There are many military bases being built and these surround the outer circle of the lingkor. Another huge camp, Wu Ji Tsundu, was built behind the Chakpori (a hill in Lhasa); the soldiers there are extremely well trained to suppress any political disturbances. There are believed to be about 300 to 400 soldiers in this camp but this may not be truly representative due to restrictions on information.”

“Another recent arrival from the Lhasa area reported on taxes and imposed on having a space in the Barkhor open market. Traders must pay 65 yuan per month  to the Chadrel (taxation office), 20 yuan to the Dhotam Chue (Management committee), 15 yuan for sweeping expenses, 20 yuan for the space itself (whether or not you actually open a stall), bringing to total 120 yuan.”

“In Lhasa people have no real profession except keeping stalls which now means paying unbelievable taxes. Living has become very difficult for Tibetan people and they are suffering an unemployment crisis. Many people remain idle and the young people, especially men, have become lazy because they have nothing to do,” said the source.

“They have no choice but to while away their time drinking, stealing, and going to casinos. Such petty thieves are always released soon after they are arrested; it often seems as though they are being encouraged to live such a life. There are no reformation centres for these young people.”

“New buildings have replaced the old houses. The owners of the old houses are driven out and when flats are built over them for huge sums or stay on a rental basis. Nothing is owned by Tibetans whereas the Chinese immigrants have shops and work in offices.”

“Even the laboring work is now done by Chinese. Tibetan craftsmen have no work and the carpenters, for instance, have been replaced. There is no employment for Tibetans in any field and even Tibetans working in Chinese offices are also being dismissed and told “your thoughts and spirit are with the Dalai Lama and your stomach depends on the Chinese.”

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